There’s a stretch of the Wisconsin River in the south-central part of the state where the water carves through golden sandstone formations in a narrow, dramatic gorge, creating one of the most distinctive natural landscapes in the Midwest. This is the original Wisconsin Dells, a geological wonder that drew tourists as far back as the 19th century. Over the decades, the town that grew around the gorge evolved into something altogether different: the self-proclaimed Waterpark Capital of the World, a resort destination that blends natural scenery with an astonishing concentration of water parks, amusement parks, hotels, and family entertainment that has few equals in the region.
The Natural Dells
Before the waterslides and the go-karts, there was the river. The Wisconsin River Dells, as the gorge is formally known, consists of two sections: the Upper Dells and the Lower Dells. The rock formations in this stretch were created when meltwater from retreating glaciers cut rapidly through the underlying sandstone, leaving vertical walls, sculpted rock formations, and hidden chambers along the riverbanks. The results are genuinely beautiful: towering orangish-tan cliffs, narrow side canyons called stands, and formations with names like Witches Gulch, Demon’s Anvil, and Romance Cliff that capture the character of the landscape.
The best way to see the natural Dells is aboard one of the famous duck tours operated by Original Wisconsin Ducks or on a boat tour run by Dells Boat Tours. The amphibious duck vehicles drive directly into the river and provide tours of both the water and the land sections of the gorge. Boat tours depart from the downtown pier and cover the scenic upper and lower sections of the river. These tours, running since the early 20th century, are as much a Wisconsin Dells tradition as any of the water parks.
The Water Parks
Wisconsin Dells has more than 20 indoor and outdoor water parks, a concentration that is genuinely unrivaled anywhere in the world. The parks range from enormous resort complexes to standalone outdoor parks, and together they contain hundreds of slides, rivers, wave pools, and water play areas. The biggest resort water parks, including Kalahari, Great Wolf Lodge, Wilderness Resort, and Mt. Olympus Water and Theme Park, are massive operations that could easily occupy visitors for multiple days.
Kalahari Resort boasts North America’s largest indoor water park, covering 173,000 square feet with slides of every variety, a surfing simulator, a lazy river, and an indoor waterfall. Great Wolf Lodge, a family-focused resort that has locations across the country, has one of its best and most popular properties in the Dells. Wilderness Resort, one of the largest privately owned campground and resort complexes in the country, has multiple separate water parks on its grounds, ranging from outdoor parks open in summer to enormous indoor facilities that operate year-round.
Mt. Olympus Water and Theme Park is worth special mention for its combination of outdoor water park attractions with a full-scale theme park featuring roller coasters, go-kart tracks, and classic carnival rides. It occupies a sprawling footprint in the center of the Dells strip and is one of the most complete entertainment complexes in the region.
Beyond the Water Parks
Wisconsin Dells has so much to offer beyond its famous water attractions that it’s easy to fill a multi-day trip without ever putting on a swimsuit. The Downtown Dells, centered on Broadway and surrounding streets, has a good walkable collection of shops, restaurants, and attractions. Tommy Bartlett’s Exploratory is a hands-on science and technology attraction that has been entertaining families in the Dells for decades. Ripley’s Believe It or Not, the Famous Zip Line, and Rick Wilcox Theater, home to a professional magic show, are among the many additional options.
Mini-golf enthusiasts are in their element in the Dells. The area has more than a dozen mini-golf courses, ranging from standard layouts to elaborately themed courses with waterfalls, caves, and animatronic creatures. For a more nature-focused experience, Mirror Lake State Park is just a short drive from the main tourist strip and offers a tranquil contrast with excellent camping, kayaking, and hiking.
Where to Stay
Lodging in Wisconsin Dells is abundant and varied. The major resort water parks are also hotels, and staying at one of them gives guests direct access to the water park without needing a car. These resorts range from good value to premium, with Kalahari and Great Wolf Lodge at the higher end. For budget-conscious travelers, the Dells has a wide selection of more modest motels and vacation rentals, and staying at an independent property and purchasing day passes to a water park separately can often be more economical for larger families.
The Wisconsin Dells area is a year-round destination. Summer is peak season for outdoor water parks and river tours. The indoor water parks make the Dells a surprisingly popular winter destination as well, particularly during school breaks in December and February. Fall brings smaller crowds and pleasant weather for exploring the natural Dells and the surrounding countryside.
Getting There
Wisconsin Dells is located along Interstate 90/94 about 55 miles northwest of Madison and 130 miles northwest of Milwaukee. It’s a straightforward drive from Chicago, Minneapolis, or any of the major cities in the upper Midwest. The Amtrak Empire Builder train stops at Wisconsin Dells station, making it accessible from Chicago and the Twin Cities without a car.
Wisconsin Dells is many things: a geological curiosity, a family resort destination, a temple of American roadside entertainment. It is loud and commercial and utterly unabashed about all of it. Kids adore it. Parents find it surprisingly fun. And almost everyone who visits comes home with a story or two. If you’re traveling with children in the Midwest, the Dells is essentially mandatory, and even adults traveling without kids might find themselves won over by its cheerful, over-the-top exuberance.